Our travels took us back to the beautiful, but “grimy” city of Naples. Truly this city is a diamond in the rough. It has the architecture of Paris, Rome, and is reminiscent of Spain. All the different architecture is due to different royal families ruling the city, from the Spanish to the French each left their mark in a big way.

Many websites will warn against pickpockets and high crime, but we did not experience any of it, even though I walked around the city with a Chanel WOC and a Reissue 225 (even though the latter is a “hidden Chanel piece”). Our group consisted of my parents, my husband, and myself. Even at night just walking with my husband I never felt unsafe (of course standard precautions should be taken in any city including Naples).

Our plane was delayed over 4 hours; Meridiana Airline always running on Italy time. This is the only airline that flies to Naples direct with no stops. It was very disappointing, it’s enough time to see a small museum. On top of it, they offer only 1 meal choice and their planes are very old, but they fly direct (so you have to pick your poison).

The city has areas that seem sketchy, but take it as the charm. It still has broken structures from WWII and the traditional looking alleyways with women talking to each other and laundry hanging on between buildings. The people are friendly and the atmosphere is very Italian, not many people speak English, but they always try to help.

Naples feels like it is always under construction (I visited the city about 8 years ago, much has improved, but a lot of construction was going on at that time as well). This is one of the few cities that I have seen in Europe that has so much potential, but no one to actualize it. It has art ranging from more than 2 centuries ago to the present, architecture of other European empires, and a beautiful location on the sea (among many other positives). Unfortunately it feels like when tourists come they go straight to see Pompeii, Sorrento, Carpi. Naples is forgotten even though all the real treasures from Pompeii are in the Architectural Museum in Naples. Or the works of the Renaissance Master on display in Museo Capodimonte (among many other great works).

The first day we walked to Royal Palace of Naples. The palace is not well taken care of and has very little staff. There is a lot of dust and worn or eaten away clothe that was once beautiful and new. The few staff that are present open the doors and windows allowing outside air into rooms that should only be climate controlled. They have a painting by the great Russian painter Aivazovsky, among other wonderful works. One of the most interesting things in the palace are the doors, they have a similar style to Sevres and are a delight to see. The great staircase is magnificent and the marble looks decadent, as does the theater in the Palace, but sadly it all needs repair and cleaning. If you find your journey has brought you to Naples, please visit the museum and pay the small entry fee, it needs as much donation as can be given to bring this Palace back to pure majesty.

After the museum we walked on Via Chiaia to find a place to eat, luck was on our side. We found a wonderful little café with very fresh food, delicious and very cheap. The café was called Cinque Baretteria. They had great freshly squeezed juices, salads, sandwiches, and hot entrees. I recommend this place. Menu was in English and Italian. Next door is Magnum and we indulged, creating our own ice-cream stick.

We took a cab back to the hotel, because the next day would be even more eventful, we would travel to the island of Capri.

Ciao ’til next post!

Southern Italy; Second day, Capri

Southern Italy, Third day Ischia

Southern Italy, Fourth day, Back to Naples

Southern Italy; 5th day, Pompeii, and Amalfi Coast

Southern Italy; Sixth Day, Last day in Naples

More Photos of the Royal Palace